1860's Chemise for Yours Truly

This is another piece for the HSF challenge. The category for this fortnight is "Under It All". I've had this piece in mind since day one. I mean, really, who can't use more chemises?!

I'm going to apologize right now for the loathsome photos. Didn't sleep a wink last night and started a new position as a nanny today. I'm completely exhausted and had no energy for styling my hair let alone standing outside in 30 F weather for better lighting. In short I was lazy and my photographer doesn't get home from work early enough for outdoor lighting anyhow.

The fabric is actually a 50+ year old hospital bed sheet. 100% cotton.The story is thus - a small jailhouse in rural Missouri was preparing for the Cuban missile crisis these sheets were one of the things they stocked up. My cousin rescued them a couple years back and they've come in fabulously handy! They're completely sturdy even after being washed and ironed their quite stiff and crisp. I'm told that's because that's what *good* sheeting is like. Unfortunately the majority of them have some water stains. They can often be over looked or cut around so its all good. Only notion used is thread.

I'm hoping its far enough off shoulder that it won't show on future party dress necklines that will expectantly hit me on almost the same spot. It will be first worn in May or June. Depends on the dresses I choose to wear for which events.

I technically didn't use a pattern. I made a relatively farby chemise, using a McCall's pattern I don't have the number for, several years ago. I loved it because it doesn't show at my neck line when I'm wearing boat necks nor does it have tacky sleeves sticking out my short/open sleeves. Frankly there's nothing wrong with that, but my OCD side has to show its self and in turn underpinnings peaking out is one of my biggest peeves. However, the whole reason for wearing a chemise is to protect ones dresses from perspiration and - equalling less washings, etc. So this little, sleeveless thing was completely useless in that regard... Not to mention its way short like barely to my hips/dropped waist - tho that does work okay for me most the time. I'm hoping to alleviate the need for wearing a petti under my hoop. It was also very narrow width wise. SO....I layed the existing chemise down on my fabric traced the armscye curve and then just free handed everything else from there. Added about a foot in length (was able to use the original sheet hem = win!) Next I took the original yoke shape and copied it pretty much exactly.

I actually used the pattern from a modern blouse sleeve pattern as a base for the sleeves (yes, I'm prepared for a wet snood lashing, not with standing - the armsyce curve matched PERFECTLY). Its basically nothing like the original thing, but it gave me somewhere to start and also made me feel little more comfortable diving in, I guess. I made it way narrower and much shorter then the existing pattern. White cotton it like gold around here and I would have hated to waste any... haha They're essentially an elemental raglan style. So they are sewn into the armsyce and then gathered to the yoke as part of the neckline. I had been planning on gathering the bottom and adding a very narrow band (mainly cause I thought it'd look cute), but once I tried it on I thought better of it- the circumference of my bicep fluctuates frequently and I can't stand sleeves that end up being to tight after a couple weeks containing more physical activity then I usually experience and...poof...there goes any comfort there ever was. Anyway I ended up doing a 1/4 hem. That way if I'm not happy with the length then it will be easier to change.

I made it for use in 1860-65. I wouldn't swear by its accuracy. I, of course, used all period correct techniques and personally think the shape is suitable. Any thoughts y'all?

It took me around 4-5 hours I think. Everything is hand gathered and I had to rip the yoke of and redo it all since I had the sleeves spread to far forward and back on the first round. It was cutting into my underarm and I didn't see that being to fun to deal with. All seams are flat felled, as well, and of course I hand whipped the yoke down on the inside. Top stitching just kinda turns me off when it comes to most things. Total cost is: $0.50 Yep, you read that right! 50 cents! These are the kind of project I love. ;)

And that's the happy ending of a story about a girl who got the chemise of her dreams!!! Hey! its the little things right? Its really got me itching for an event now...only a few more months.

Love,

Brooke

1860's Civilian Waistcoat & Cravat

 Since I took this on awhile back and didn't finish it right away...I decided to use it as my UFO project for The Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge I'm participating in. It seems to be a common trend for me... as usual this exploit was full of many firsts.

For the front I used cotton velvet from fabric.com and the back is silk taffeta from Fashion Fabrics Club. (*Note to self* they have great price on it and its perfect. No slubs, crisp, and lightweight.) The lining is white cotton. As far is notions go the only thing I used were the button forms and buckle for the back.

 First time doing welt pockets. Quite the experience. Velvet was an all around pain in the neck to work with. I'm definitely not planning on rushing into another project involving the stuff. I've never really made anything with it before so it was a true learning affair. lol

 The pattern is based on Past Patterns: Single Breasted Shawl Collar Waistcoat. One of the main reasons I went for the shawl collar is so it would perhaps look a tad bit more "formal" (yes, I know different fabrics were the main factor of formality). I'm eager to try one with notched lapels... or whatever the PC term for them is....
Both items were made to be accurate for 1860-64.

 These buttons, arghhhh. I thought they were going to be the end of my sewing career. :p lol It took me hours to get them together...the velvet was just so bulky and obviously frays like bonkers. Not to mention the buttonholes - since I was worried about getting them made without the front turning completely turning to fuzz...I, first, machine sewed where the holes would be. Then cut them and hand sewed regular buttons holes. Wasn't quite the charm I was hoping for. The machine stitching often pulled off the fibers when I was whipping around it. In the end I prevailed and they didn't look half bad. ;)

 Unfortunately I have absolutely no clue how many hours it took for me to complete. I've never kept track of such things. I would say its been one of the smaller, but more time consuming things I've made. Between the welt pockets, covered buttons that wouldn't cooperate, 80% of it being hand sewn and bagging it backwards the first 2 times it probably took over 30 hours... 

The materials cost around $35, I think. My sister ordered everything so it may not be exact on the dollar, but close enough. ;)  Not sure when its going to be first worn as this was for a client and it probably won't be till April or so...

 I would say its about 95% historically accurate. While I did my best to find the most accurate materials - the 5% missing is due to the difference in fabric from the 19th century and today. Otherwise the cut, techniques, etc are period correct. Even the cravat is copied from originals. ;)

 I thought this segment about clothing etiquette was incredibly helpful for knowing when it would be proper to go with/without a waistcoat, etc....
 "Clothing etiquette will depend a great deal on the type of impression, the personality of the gentleman, societal perceptions of the appropriate attire for the situation, and the types of activities the gentleman is engaged in.
 In the most general form... vest, coat, and cravat/neckerchief are needed for situations deemed more formal... going without is accepted in situations deemed less formal. If the gent is seen "about town", he is probably on some business he deems moderately formal, as in.. he'll be seen by persons upon whom he'd like to make a good impression. A vest/waistcoat and coat are important for that occasion. If he is engaged in heavy labor... or at a picnic on a hot day... or in the evening hanging around home... less formal situation and the coat definitely can be and the waistcoat/vest may be left off. He may choose to replace the coat and sometimes a vest with a smock/ work-shirt for heavier or dirtier tasks or sporting events (including hunting, which leads to the number of militia troops and early war uniforms that include them as a key uniform component) and still be deemed "decently" dressed. Remember that the farmer who may wear a work-shirt to tend his fields and animals would don a waistcoat and coat before squiring the Mrs. to shopping in town... or meeting with the bankers concerning his loan for next season's seedlings... or certainly a dance, supper party, or church service. The young dandy might start the lakeside outing in his nice linen dittos, but remove his coat to row the boat or take his afternoon nap in the sun or carry the basket.
 Among the very working-class, one does see pictures of gents with just a shirt, coat, and neckerchief (no vest/waistcoat in sight). One can also find pictures of gents in waistcoats/vests but without coats... but often there are "occasion indicators" in these pictures as well... a camaraderie of men, interrupted work, at work, very hot day, and such, that tell us when they thought this appropriate." Taken from this post.

  Not necessarily part of my UFO, but it went to he same gentleman. Thus I was inclined to include it in this post. It was the first time we'd done a pretied cravat. Pretty much just winged it. So not much to say about it. :p Its made up of 3 seperate peices. The bow, knot, and band. Each peice is sewn up then all are attached to each other...It buttons in the back and is made out a lovely, forest green silk taffeta.

 

Love,

Brooke

Endeavors in 1860's Letter writing.

 Over the summer Michelle was asked to write 1860's style letters for some soldiers. They were to be used as "props" per say, at an event, during mail call. It was a super fun project - we had alot of fun executing the task at hand. We'd love to have the opportunity to do it again, maybe without such a close deadline this time tho. ;)

 She might disagree, but from my observation thinking of a diverse, variety of proper things to write - was infact, the more difficult task at hand. For the actual content. She found several original letters online and also got some books from that library that had copies of originals as well. Those definitely helped with the level of creativity... :D Since then I've been saving any I find around for future reference. lol

 As usual several of fabulous, living historians jumped in and offered wonderful advice and resources in various forms.

Since we only had a couple days to put them together we weren't able to get our hands on any paper that was particularly special. We just had to use regular printer paper. She tried to make each one alittle bit different from the others as you can see...she even made a CDV for one. :p

Jasper supplied me with 'stamps', which we printed out and then Michelle cut around every little bump on the edge. :D Thank goodness for our little stork scissors. lol He also sent the template we used for the envelopes. (Yeah, I think he's the best too. :D lol)

Miss Stephanie has several fabulous posts on the subject Spencerian handwriting. (One of which the above diagram came from). Dip Pens and Period Inks. Spencerian Ladies' Mid 1800's Handwriting Part 1 and Part 2. The latter 2 were incredibly helpful!

I'm told ink can be obtained at Hobby Lobby, Micheals, or Dick Blick. Higgins Eternal Ink decanted into a period container works. Also that John Neal Bookseller offers the most accurate steel nibs available along with all the materials to learn proper Spencerian penmanship (its noted to use the straight shaft pen and not an oblique, but same directions).  

Onto paper. Paper does not have to be white...I was advised you could cut down sheets of yellow legal pads to about 5X6". I'm hazarding to guess college ruled would be the way to go as that's more the proportion I've seen in originals. Any cotton bond paper will work for the period which can be found at walmart. Also laid paper from Sullivan Press, but I hear they are not always easy to order from. And lastly one can cut Strathmore laid resume paper in ivory down to 8"x10"... folded this becomes 5"x8" booklet form that is most common for letters. Goldenrod resume paper for the envelopes, as that was more common than ivory. And that's the wrap...

 Sorry about the sad lack of posts lately. I'm currently trying to adjust to life. Having just graduated from high school and not having a job, etc. I'm attempting to find a healthy balance, but still be productive. Easier said then done - for me at least. I promise I am doing alittle sewing...Several of the things I've been working on are for The Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge I'm participating in. So I'll be posting things when I finish - them coinciding with the deadlines. I'm hoping it will help me get back in a grove...

 

Love,

Brooke

**Disclaimer** Not claiming to be a pro and I can't be held responsible for the accuracy of said information. This is merely me compiling information that I've found to be helpful.

Precision Planting Christmas Party 2012

A quick step into the modern world....

This past weekend was our first Christmas party of the season. Thanks to child labor laws I'm no longer an employee of the company, but I was able to attend as someone else's guest... Its always a spectacular evening and I was overjoyed to be able to spend some time with several of my relatives (who I don't get to see nearly, often enough these days). Not to mention getting to see all my 'work' friends. They made such an impact on me...I miss them all sooo much! 

The gorgeous centerpiece on our table!

The lovely Rachel enjoying her dinner. This girl is so wonderful!

Me...waiting. A few of us had been up visiting when they brought the food to our table. We went back to the table only to find they hadn't left us any. So we sat they waiting - expecting them to come back later with our food. Everyone else was nearly done - and we decided to take some action. Luis came to our rescue and asked the waitresses to bring us our plates. What we do without him? lol

 



                                Olivia Sr.                             

 Oh wait... That's better. This is Sarah!

Then we got some real action! All the ladies get to pick the gift they want out of this glorious lane of happiness!! lol This is a *HUGE* deal for this mall deprived gal. Its always *such* a hard choice. I opted for a pair of boots this year...

Next up was the 'game'. This year each table got a box of supplies. And we were supposed to build "gingerbread houses" to fit into the following categories...

Needless to say the stakes were high!!

The constuction of...

        ...our Ag related display began.

Poor Bryce and Josiah - had a team of all girls.

  I dare say we can hold our own in this department. hehe

 Not the best shot, but I think you get the idea of our finished product! It was a surprising amount of fun. Although I mainly watched and ate whatever stray candy I could find. lol In my defense I did build all the fence. hehe :p Incase your wondering we didn't win (I still think we should have. :D lol).

Malena and I! I love this lady SO much!

Bryce and Emily- looking as cute as ever.

Michelle looked so incredibly beautiful!

      Rachel and Em!

Yours truly.



I'm so proud of Sarah! She sewed the skirt for her dress! Didn't she do a fabulous job?!!? She definitely looked charming! I think the shoes were the perfect touch! :)                                           



Michelle and I. We made both our dresses. I plan to do separate posts about them, but that will require photoshoots so I can't guarantee when they will be up.                                    

          Michelle and her gentleman friend Josiah. Aren't they completely adorable?!?!

 

It was such a great night - as usual I hated for it to end. For more pictures go here. Hope y'all don't mind the change from my regularly scheduled program. ;) Let me know what you think.. :)

Love,

Brooke

Dollinger Farms Civil War Reenactment 2012

Its one of the best events of the season. We look forward to it all year. Then are bummed when its over. Ironic isn't it? This year was especially memorable! Our dear friends, the Gersts, came from Missouri to spend the weekend with us and attend their first event with us - as spectators...

I'll start out with the pictures from the battle. Unfortunately I don't have anything to say about them. lol I didn't watch it in person, but I hear it was pretty good. I know last year it was quite a sight to see...for us small timers anyway. lol

Love that flag!



Me, Sarah, and Megan.
The weather was pretty much great so we didn't have to freeze all day which was really nice.

My "new" wool. I actually first made it 2 or 3 years ago. I wasn't happy with how it fit tho. So I'd been trying to remake it all fall - to no avail. I just couldn't make it work. Finally I gave up and just did what I could - basically adding a waistband and pleating all the fullness in the center front. I'm still quite displeased with how it looks, but I suppose it was a step in the right direction. I can't even describe how much I hate sewing for myself.

Me and Sarah attempting to pet one of the horses. I don't think I ever ended up being able to touch it. :D lol

Can it get any cuter? I think, not. Gotta love an adorable, well dressed chap.



So many *fabulous* ladies to visit with. That and seeing Jasper were definitely the highlights of the event. I'm definitely feeling inspired to work on our impressions again. 

Before the dance some of us ventured into the corn maze. It was completely dark by the time I went so it was definitely interesting running our way thru it...lol

Megan got to wear her new silk again. She looked quite darling if you ask me. Her and her partner were even head couple in the Grand March. Michelle and I had a good laugh watching them do that. lol Never the less they did a wonderful job...

My little brother, Matt, during the Virginia Reel.
Finally!!! A guy in the family that will dance!!! Hurrah!! :D

I LOVE this picture. lol Tom and I were trying to figure out a new dance...it didn't go so well. We still hadn't mastered it by the end of the number. We had alot of fun tho and were laughing the whole time so we're counting it as a win. ;)

Romeo and Juliet.
AKA
Josiah and Michelle

Just don't ask. lol :D Tom apparently got a hold of Michelle's camera. lol I think he's still experiencing the side effects of trying to figure out that stupid dance. haha

Rachel, me, and Sarah during the patti cake polka. On the right is Benjamin and Hannah! I was so thrilled that a good portion of them danced. :D We always triumph over turning our friends to the dark side.

Our fabulous dance mistress, Elaine Masicale! She's definitely in my top 2 favorite callers. ;) :D



Tom and Michelle doing the last waltz. Its unbelievable he managed to get a dance in with Josiah there. :p lol

For additional pictures you can see Tom's here. Michelle still hasn't loaded the rest of ours (eek)..
It was such an awesome weekend - created lots of memories, as one might imagine. :)

Love,
Brooke