1860's Chemise for Yours Truly

This is another piece for the HSF challenge. The category for this fortnight is "Under It All". I've had this piece in mind since day one. I mean, really, who can't use more chemises?!

I'm going to apologize right now for the loathsome photos. Didn't sleep a wink last night and started a new position as a nanny today. I'm completely exhausted and had no energy for styling my hair let alone standing outside in 30 F weather for better lighting. In short I was lazy and my photographer doesn't get home from work early enough for outdoor lighting anyhow.

The fabric is actually a 50+ year old hospital bed sheet. 100% cotton.The story is thus - a small jailhouse in rural Missouri was preparing for the Cuban missile crisis these sheets were one of the things they stocked up. My cousin rescued them a couple years back and they've come in fabulously handy! They're completely sturdy even after being washed and ironed their quite stiff and crisp. I'm told that's because that's what *good* sheeting is like. Unfortunately the majority of them have some water stains. They can often be over looked or cut around so its all good. Only notion used is thread.

I'm hoping its far enough off shoulder that it won't show on future party dress necklines that will expectantly hit me on almost the same spot. It will be first worn in May or June. Depends on the dresses I choose to wear for which events.

I technically didn't use a pattern. I made a relatively farby chemise, using a McCall's pattern I don't have the number for, several years ago. I loved it because it doesn't show at my neck line when I'm wearing boat necks nor does it have tacky sleeves sticking out my short/open sleeves. Frankly there's nothing wrong with that, but my OCD side has to show its self and in turn underpinnings peaking out is one of my biggest peeves. However, the whole reason for wearing a chemise is to protect ones dresses from perspiration and - equalling less washings, etc. So this little, sleeveless thing was completely useless in that regard... Not to mention its way short like barely to my hips/dropped waist - tho that does work okay for me most the time. I'm hoping to alleviate the need for wearing a petti under my hoop. It was also very narrow width wise. SO....I layed the existing chemise down on my fabric traced the armscye curve and then just free handed everything else from there. Added about a foot in length (was able to use the original sheet hem = win!) Next I took the original yoke shape and copied it pretty much exactly.

I actually used the pattern from a modern blouse sleeve pattern as a base for the sleeves (yes, I'm prepared for a wet snood lashing, not with standing - the armsyce curve matched PERFECTLY). Its basically nothing like the original thing, but it gave me somewhere to start and also made me feel little more comfortable diving in, I guess. I made it way narrower and much shorter then the existing pattern. White cotton it like gold around here and I would have hated to waste any... haha They're essentially an elemental raglan style. So they are sewn into the armsyce and then gathered to the yoke as part of the neckline. I had been planning on gathering the bottom and adding a very narrow band (mainly cause I thought it'd look cute), but once I tried it on I thought better of it- the circumference of my bicep fluctuates frequently and I can't stand sleeves that end up being to tight after a couple weeks containing more physical activity then I usually experience and...poof...there goes any comfort there ever was. Anyway I ended up doing a 1/4 hem. That way if I'm not happy with the length then it will be easier to change.

I made it for use in 1860-65. I wouldn't swear by its accuracy. I, of course, used all period correct techniques and personally think the shape is suitable. Any thoughts y'all?

It took me around 4-5 hours I think. Everything is hand gathered and I had to rip the yoke of and redo it all since I had the sleeves spread to far forward and back on the first round. It was cutting into my underarm and I didn't see that being to fun to deal with. All seams are flat felled, as well, and of course I hand whipped the yoke down on the inside. Top stitching just kinda turns me off when it comes to most things. Total cost is: $0.50 Yep, you read that right! 50 cents! These are the kind of project I love. ;)

And that's the happy ending of a story about a girl who got the chemise of her dreams!!! Hey! its the little things right? Its really got me itching for an event now...only a few more months.

Love,

Brooke

1860's toddler strapped petticoat and chemise

Awhile back I had the pleasure of working with my dear friend, Paris. She needed a few undergarments for little boy, Asa.

 First off is the strapped petticoat. It was a blast to make. Everything was squares or rectangles thus making it super easy.

It consisted of the waistband, straps, and 2 skirts. I sewed the two skirts on as one thus giving a the look of multiple petticoats, but they're all one piece. Anyone with little kids know how difficult it is to get all their layers on correctly. ;P 

The chemise is shaped the same as Elizabeth Stewart Clark's ladies chemise. A simple raglan style. Both of them are of course 100% cotton. All the gathers were hand sewn. It makes them so much finer and I'm able cram alot more fabric into smaller areas. :D

Here Asa is with his whole ensemble on. Paris did an awesome job on his dress. Makes me wish I had a little boy to dress. He looks picture perfect and is one the cutest little boys I've ever seen. :)

Love,

Brooke

My first attempt at a 1860's wardrobe

I went to my first civil war reenactment in the fall of 2007. It was such a new experience for me. An experience that I've not yet forgotten, of course. :) I have to say I was captivated by everything I saw! In the months following we decided to become more involved. I already had a dress made by someone else and Michelle was working on her own so that left Megan. As with any other era we started from the inside out.

 We used Elizabeth's chemise pattern. The fabric is utility muslin. This was the first pattern I drew. I guess that's why the sleeves are considerable to long. For her drawers I once again used one of Elizabeth's patterns. But since its for split drawers and Megan's needed to be closed I had to do quite a bit few adaptions to switch them to side opening.  Briefly and without pictures, you draft the drawers to measure, then pick a point just "forward" of 1/2 way across each waist edge, and cut a slit down about 5-6"; hem the slit and reinforce the bottom.  Sew the drawers legs, hem, tuck, etc; sew the crutch seam completely.

Then cut two waistbands.  The back band needs to be long enough to wrap to the front a tad.  The front band holds the button, the back the buttonhole.  Gather the front and back to match the bands, and finish the bands as in the pattern.

Next comes the cage and petticoats. I don't have a picture of her cage. Which is probably a good thing because it looks pretty rough. :P But it worked for several years so I guess that's all that matters. :D One doesn't need a pattern for something so simple as a petticoat, but this article may help. :) I did 5, 1" (finished) tucks on hers. They really helped add some body and held her skirt out well.

The dress. We got HMP-250 for it. It was one of the best purchases I've ever made. We've used it so much ever since then. Its a perfect base for our dresses. I'd recommend it to anyone! :) We did a Natural Waist bodice, with puff sleeves, and a gathered skirt. I also did 5 tucks on this. The fabric is plaid homespun. It actually held up considerably well. She just out grew it last year and it has alot of wear left in it. :)

We also made it for an interchangeable long sleeve bodice for colder events. Natural waist bodice and coat sleeves.

And lastly a pinafore. We used a homespun for it to. Never failing I make the bodices to long everytime I use this pattern. But its an easy enough thing to fix, I suppose. :)

Overall not my best pieces, but I suppose I can't expect much more from a 12 year old. :P 

Love,

Brooke 

1860's baby layette

Recently one of my online reenacting friends' was expecting her first child! A while later she discovered she was going to have twins!!! So some of her local friends planned a 1860's baby shower! I so wish I could have been there, but since I live thousands of miles away I couldn't be. Rather I made a few things to send her.  If you know me. You know I prefer simple things. I've never been one for all the frills of fashion. I'm more of a sleek person. That said, that's what I did with these. :D

 For the gowns. I used simple cotton prints.

For the pattern I used Sarah Jane's lovely infant gown pattern. I pleated the front of the bodices and both skirts were hand gathered. I think used the coat sleeve pattern from Elizabeth's pattern.

The chemises were made out a fine white cotton. It was so soft I really enjoyed working with it. :) I based them off of Sarah's pattern here.  (Which is shaped pretty much like this chemise. :) I just added length, tapered it out slightly, cut both the front and back on the fold, and bound the neck link as one 'big' circle.

Lastly we have the caps. :) Once again fine white cotton with lace edging. And self fabric ties which I only put in the bottom. I'm sure I found the pattern for this on Sarah's blog also, but I can't for the life of me find a link. :-/ Basically the brim is rectangle as are the ties and the back is rounded on the top and flat on the bottom as you can see. :D

The adorable recipients Alanna and Jesse. :)

Thanks so much, Sarah Jane for being so helpful and sharing. Your such an inspiration. I'm so blessed to know you!

 I suppose I will sign off now. As I'm running on 3 hours of sleep last night a cup off coffee this morning and I've had a very busy day. Me and  Michelle froze 39 quarts of sweet corn,  pulled and snapped a gallon and a half of green beans, picked a gallon and a half of blackberries in a terrible patch (we're super scratched up now :P), and  we just got done making/canning 12 quarts of blueberry jam. Now the kitchen is spotless and it 10:54 p.m.. :D Needless to say. I'm alittle tired and in for a day of the same tomorrow. :)

Love,

Brooke

Past Patterns #707 Chemise

Awhile back my sister Michelle decided she wanted a new 1860's chemise. She generally prefers things to be quite frilly and such, so we decided to use Past Patterns 707 (the one on the left).

For the fabric I used a white cotton. It was already starched so it was pretty nice to work with. The chemise itself was quite complicated, coming from someone who mainly makes simple raglan style chemises anyway. :D It used many techniques I hadn't done before.

It features scalloped edges on the sleeve hem and the top edge of the yoke. We left off the embroidery for durability's sake. 

The yoke is topstitched thru all layers to be attached. It actually wasn't as hard as I expected it to be. I just recommend to pin it quite a bit. ;) Then you whip stitch the yoke facing down to the inside.

The front closes with 3 original china bottons. The yoke was the hardest part to construct by far. I scalloped the edges then took the facing and ironed all the edges under. Then stitched it the the yoke by hand on 3 edges. There's only one layer of fabric to sew it to. So I took one thread of the fabric for every stitch in attempt to make them invisible. It proved to be quite tedious, but the end product was well worth it. :)

For the first time using this pattern it took me quite awhile to complete the chemise. But I think after doing the first one. I'd be able to make another much quicker.  The chemise its self cost about $2.00 to make. The fabric is a repurposed sheet and the buttons were from a lot off of eBay.

Best wishes,
Brooke