The Dress Of Dread!

This dress has certainly been one of dread. From fitting trials to my little brother chopping into a piece I didn't have any material to replace it with to getting black nail polish on the front of the bodice...Oi! I've nevermore been so happy to have something concluded.  But after all the longer the wait the more jubilant the inauguration, no?

 The material is a reproduction print. I can't remember exactly who made.. :-/ lol Needless to say I've been working on this gown for quite sometime. If I recall correctly I used Past Patterns 702 as a base for the bodice.

 Lil sis and I spent hours fiddling with the fit. We had to re-cut the armsyce quite alot. Let me just say that's no fun. We also re-positioned the side and shoulder seams. And just downsized it in general.

I'm still not quite satisfied - I believe it needs a tad of padding around the front armsyce. But its a huge step up from where I've been, seeing as I've previously not had any of the proper lines. I daresay I absolutely adore having a dropped armsyce as restricting as they can be. 

I used tucks for the waist treatment on the front bodice. I only had enough ease for 2 very thin ones, but alas they do the job on my less then slight bust. 

The skirt has layered directional pleats. I thoroughly tried to be sure all the stripes were making a pattern. I of course used a deep hem facing. Those can be life savers for sure. I also employed wool hem tape for the first time. I'm totally in love with it!! 

The sleeves are made using a basic slim sleeve pattern - the simple sloper that I base most of my 1860's sleeves off. The bottom section is cut on the bias to allow for alittle extra movement seeing as they are rather snug. The puffs are just rectangles with alittle chevron action going on with some of them because I ran clean out of fabric and had to piece all of the them. There is like 8 or so pieces for each sleeve. Directional stripes are no longer my friend. lol ;) I also did some extreme piecing to have enough piping for the neckline, armsyce, cuffs, and the bottom of the waistband.  

All in all, I believe I'm sufficiently content with the visual display. I decided I was going to take my time and put the proper efforts in so it would look as good on the inside as the out. There's nothing more pleasing then clean, over casted seams. :D

And then the little details that seem to enhance the whole ensemble and make it look properly integrated!  

The belt is silk taffeta. I first cut a strip of cotton duck the width I desired my finished belt to be. Then I cut the taffeta wide enough to wrap around the duck, plus 1/2 an inch to fold under. Next I whipped one long side of the taffeta to the center of the duck and wrapped it around folding the other long edge under 1/2 an inch and whipping it down over the previous side. 

The rosette was a beast. I cut a circle foundation out of duck, slightly smaller then finished size I needed. Then cut a circle of silk half an inch bigger on all sides. Which I then centered over the wrong side of the foundation, folded the extra material over, and stitched it into place. I next cut several strips of silk on the bias. I pleated mine (53 tiny things to be exact). However you could gather it as well. I set my strips in layers because I wasn't pleased with how they laid as one continuous thing. Lastly I made a covered button and set it in the center (the wood forms from Needle and thread rock btw.) 

My bow is made out of cotton velvet. Cut in 3 pieces - the bow and 2 ties. This was the inspiration....

Lastly my faux gutta percha reproduction earrings made by Mandy Kallal. I love those things. They complete the ambiance in my humble opinion.  

And there you have it, my dears.... ;)

Love,

Brooke

Galesburg Heritage days 2013

Over the weekend we were finally able to hit our 2nd event of the year! Our schedule has been so crazy we've been skipping out on a lot this year....and when your like me and live for the few days of the year you get to see your dearest friends....sadness overcomes me...Needless I was over joyed to finally be able to hit one!!!

The traditional - Galesburg Unmentionables shot. I'm thinking this one should go on the wall.. lol ;)

 

I don't think I've ever been to an event with more beautiful weather!!!! Moderate temperatures, a bit of breeze and NO rain. For this time of year that's unusual...normally the heat would be stifling. So wonderful and such a breath of fresh air from our last round of events.

Much time was spent in dream land...

Or just lounging around in general.... 

We got to see the fabulous Meister family. That's always a fun! I'm constantly in awe of the new wardrobes Ms. Sarah has created each time I see them!

Beautiful little Miss Anne.

Big sis' last hurrah as a single lady...its gunna be sad not having her around at events anymore...nostalgic much? (yess.. :( )  In other news I think my hats suits her very well, no?!?!

Yours truly... I brilliantly forgot sun screen and somehow we ended up with a slat bonnet missing every single slat...all that to say...I got a horrid sunburn. Hopefully I won't be making that mistake again anytime soon.

 

 Lil sis was, infact, there...just didn't make it into any pictures... o.O

 

Dat hat!!! This, people, is how its done!

Looks like a bit of skepticism going around..wonder what that could have been about. lol

I always have a favorite event picture...Without a doubt...its this one....

 

The day had its slow moments, but the highlight for me was getting to spend time with my bestfriend who I hadn't seen for almost a whole year. Thus I accomplished what I went for - so in the end its all a win!!

 

The rest of our pictures are here. 

 

And that's a wrap folks!

 

Love,

Brooke 

1860's Civilian Men's Shirt

A while back I had a gentleman commission this shirt....

I used pima cotton for the first time ever. One of the most fabulous materials I've ever worked with. Perfect weave and incredibly smooth! I was able to find the best price with an eBay seller - who unfortunately no longer offers this product. :( It is available for just a tad more here at fabric.com.

Made in the same fashion as mentioned here.

I sewed the majority of this one by machine. I always do buttonholes, gathering threads, and other finishing touches by hand tho...

China buttons from my secret "supplier".

 Very lightly gathered back. 

Buttonholes - not my favorite part of mid-century sewing. ;)

 

I am still chugging along on the biggest 'commission' I've ever taken on in my sewing career...An overload of pictures will come around sometime in September.. ;)

 

Love,

Brooke

'Nother 1860's Civilian Waistcoat

The front is silk taffeta, as requested, from Pure Silks. It was my first time ordering from them. I was very impressed with the quality of the material as well as with the shipping time. It was coming from India and I only had 2 weeks from the day ordered till I needed to ship the finished product. And it got here with time to spare. 

Gotta love those covered buttons!! 

I sent one mockup to my client. There was one slight alteration on the lapels, but thankfully I was able to recruit my mom to help me out with that as I was pretty much just having a duh moment and couldn't get it done. lol

It has all the same credentials (pattern-wise) as this one I've previously done. 

The back - I used polished cotton from Needle and Thread (Wooded Hamlet). My first time working with the stuff, but it was also fabulous quality-wise and I quite liked it.

And I got the buckle from there too...  

 

Ended up making the whole thing from start to finish in 2 days....It definitely seemed easier then that last one I made...perhaps that means practice does make perfect.. ;)

 

Love,

Brooke

Samantha's Dancing Dress

My friend Samantha needed a new dress for an event her dance group was doing...We started planning it a couple months back and I got the fabric a few weeks ago. But life got in the way and I didn't start working on it till last week.

 This is was the inspiration - mainly for the skirt. She drew a sketch as well which was incredibly helpful! I always love it when my clients know exactly what they want!

The actual cutting and construction of this dress took place in less than 32 hours. I started on a Sunday night at like 7 or 8 and  worked till 3 am. Got up around noon the next day and sewed all day, once again till 3:30 am. Then got up at 8 took out the remaining gathering threads and headed into my 'real job'. Panic threatened to take over, but thankfully a good friend kept me company by texting me most the night. I'm pretty sure that's the only thing that saved me..So thank you, Joe! :) Hopefully I've learned my lesson and won't procrastinate so badly anymore.

 I've previously made her a dress so I just altered "her pattern" from a front opening, yoked bodice to a back opening, slightly gathered, natural waist number. Also adding a boat neckline 1/2" narrower and 1/2" lower then normal. The sleeves, as you can see, are single puffs. She choose the lovely material from fabric.com - available here.

There's just something about china buttons that make me happy (especailly when I can get my mom to sew them on. hehe) I'm so glad I found a fellow reenactor that has a seemingly never ending stream of them...I always had soo much trouble finding them before.

There's 3 4.5" flounces. The top one was sewn on with a little frill left sticking up as seen in the CDV up top. These were by far the most time consuming part. I first sewed the hem facing to the bottom of the skirt. Then attached the first flounce. Next I sewed the hem facing up and continued onto  attaching the last 2 flounces. I had some trouble with my gathering threads breaking. So that was extremely irritating, but a good reminder to not use old thread for tasks such as those. I did a 6" hem facing as usual.

Piped the neck line and bottom of the waistband. Pretty much my staples - I'm not fond of how it tends to look when I sew skirts on to the waistband without piping. :-/ And I feel like it makes the neckline lay much better as well.

I think I gauged this skirt and sewed it on in record time! I've come to love gauging now that I can do it somewhat evenly on prints...not with standing - I do love doing it on plaids and stripes even more. :P I did a 2" fold over on top of the skirt to balance it or whatever its called...so that actually means there's only 1.5" different between the front and the back since I have to have .5" 'seam allowance'.

And with that we have the finished product on the lovely model, Samantha!!

*Photo credit: Samantha

 

Love,

Brooke

Delavan Civil War Days 2013

This weekend delivered our first event of the season! This winter felt longer then I've ever remembered, but we've never even done an event this early before. I guess it just means my love for the hobby is growing despite the brief considering of terminating my involvement last fall.

The weather looked as tho it might crash the party, but it didn't end up being very bad at all. So that was really nice. Saturday started out a bit slow, but as the day went on went on we started coming out of our shell and actually talked to some people. lol

 

My beautiful big sis, Michelle! Isn't her dress like perfect. I think I like it more everytime she wears it.

Miss Cherice (more commonly known as Sarah). Such a cutie! 

My wool ended up being the perfect choice for the dismal weather. It kept me completely comfortable all day and I love how the water just rolls off of it rather then soaking in. I did use my wool shawl alittle, but most the time it was just hanging off my arm. 

Little sis, Megan, looking more adorable then ever. 

Drill. 

We farbed out and walked to Casey's at lunch to get pizza. It was quite fun to say the least. I think the best part was when I walked thru the door and the cashier looked at me and said "Good day.." I had alittle trouble keeping a straight face. lol oh my.

Probably my favorite picture from the weekend. These are the ones that are going to be even more special here in a few short months when she leaves me. :'( lol

We were overjoyed to see the delightful Meister family there! I'm always so inspired by Sarah's work, not to mention her fabulous personality.. She's by far one of the sweetest ladies I know!

Here you see Chis taking his turn holding the charming little, Anne! 

And then Tom... 

Last but not least Michelle..she didn't put her down for most the afternoon. Can you tell she loves babies?

 The pretty little girl herself. Doesn't she have the most wonderful eyes?

  One of her older brothers, Judah.

The twins. Looking alittle mischievous if you ask me. 

Sarah and I taking a moment to watch the water run thru the little creek. 

Another one of my favorites!  

 Could they be any cuter?!

Same as last year it started raining during the battle...does make for sweet photos.

 Some awesome cavalry action right there!!!
Michelle has vowed she's never going to take pictures of farbs so thus the result of only 2 good pictures from the battle.. hehe

Chris and Lee - the troublemakers.

Megan, me, Sarah and Michelle towards the end of the dance. (Thanks Lee for getting the one and only group picture of us...) We have bunch more pictures for your viewing pleasure here. Also, Tom has a lot here!

 

All in all it was a very fun day that ended with a bang! Its quickly becoming one of my favorite events. This was only the 2nd year so it may not be as big as some people like, but I actually think we have more fun and get to spend more quailty time with folks when things are more relaxed. One of these years we'll get perfect weather and it'll be even more epic! Anyway here's the website - check it out and for the locals definately plan on coming out next year. ;)

Love,

Brooke